Food & Drink Mandy Haga Food & Drink Mandy Haga

Dubney Sandwiches

Thanksgiving leftovers don’t have to feel like an afterthought. Instead, take a page from Victor Hirtzler’s The Hotel St. Francis Cook Book and turn that leftover turkey into something elegant: the Dubney sandwich. Hirtzler, the celebrated chef of San Francisco’s St. Francis Hotel in the early 20th century, had a talent for elevating simple ingredients into refined dishes. While the Dubney sandwich may not have been the centerpiece of one of his grand banquets, it reflects his dedication to culinary creativity.

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On Dinners and Dinner-giving

Carème tells us that at grand balls and dinners he used to roast turkeys only for his soups and consommés, and he talks as volubly of two, four, and half-a-dozen fowls, as though they were had for eighteen pence a piece, instead of costing at the cheapest rate and time 5s. 6d. or 6s. a couple. A system of cookery so expensive as this can never become general in any country. Carème tells how he formed his consommés, and though doubtless they were better flavoured and presented a more golden appearance than the generality of consommés, yet, to use the language of Burke, “They were soon exhaled, and vanished hence—A short, sweet odour at a vast expense.”

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Potage Parmentier

This classic French potato-leek soup is named after Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, an 18th-century agronomist who tirelessly championed the potato as a vital food source in France. While Potage Parmentier is often considered a humble soup, its creamy texture and subtly earthy flavors elevate it to timeless elegance.

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An Amelia Simmons Thanksgiving

This cookbook is more than a collection of recipes; it’s a historical document, marking a pivotal shift from imported British recipes to a distinctly American way of cooking. Simmons’ recipes are simple yet inventive, often based on readily available ingredients like cornmeal, pumpkin, and indigenous berries — foods that define the early American diet.

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Apple-Infused Bourbon

Infused alcohols have a long and storied past, dating back to ancient Rome, where herbs and spices were combined with wine to create medicinal and ritualistic beverages. Romans would steep ingredients like fennel, mint, and rosemary in their wines, believing that these additions brought both health benefits and enhanced flavor. Over time, this practice spread across Europe and into the early modern world.

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The Medieval Origin of Mincemeat Pies

The origins of the contemporary mince pie can be traced back to the return of European crusaders from the Holy Land. During that time, Middle Eastern cooking methods, which often involved a combination of meats, fruits, and spices, gained popularity. In Tudor England, pies known as shrid pies emerged, consisting of shredded meat, suet, and dried fruit. The incorporation of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg was seen by the English antiquary John Timbs as a nod to the offerings of the Eastern Magi.

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Orecchiette con Bietole e Salsiccia and the Sfogline Women

Orecchiette, the star of this dish, are small, round pasta shapes that resemble little ears with origins dating back centuries in Puglia. Local women, known as "sfogline," would meticulously handcraft each orecchiette, pressing their thumbs into small pieces of dough to create the characteristic ear-like shape. This artisanal pasta became a symbol of Puglia's culinary identity and has remained an essential part of the region's gastronomic heritage.

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Chicken Tikka Masala with Jalapeño and Cara Cara Orange

Chicken Tikka Masala represents the adaptability of Indian cuisine and its influence beyond borders. It gained popularity through Indian restaurants in the UK in the mid-20th century and became a staple of British curry houses, ultimately achieving a status as a national dish. It symbolizes the multicultural nature of British cuisine, transcending cultural boundaries. Diverse regional variations exist, with different regions adding their unique touch, making it a dynamic and ever-evolving culinary creation.

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Amelia Simmon's “Pompkin” Pie

In an era when most culinary works leaned heavily on European traditions and techniques, "American Cookery" was a breath of fresh air, emphasizing the unique bounty of the New World. This cookbook served as a testament to the culinary diversity of the United States, incorporating ingredients like corn, cranberries, and, of course, the humble pumpkin, showcasing their versatility in a myriad of delectable recipes.

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Selections From The Queen-like Closet

The Queen-Like Closet, or Rich Cabinet, is a 17th-century English cookbook first published in 1670. It is one of the first English cookbooks to include recipes from other cultures, such as Italian and French cuisine. Author Hannah Woolley also includes recipes for "exotic" ingredients such as pineapple and chocolate, which were just starting to become available in England at the time.

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L'almanach Des Gourmands

The Frenchman may keep on his hat during the entr'actes of a play and be forever wrangling with his mode of government, but he has taught the world how to dine. "Let me have books!" cries Horace; "Let us have cooks!" exclaims the Gaul. And with the cooks come the cook-books—the meditations, codes, almanacs, physiologies, manuals, and guides.

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Irish Colcannon

One of the most significant influences on Irish cuisine was the introduction of the potato in the late 16th century. It quickly became a staple food of the Irish diet, providing a cheap and reliable source of sustenance for the rural population. However, this reliance on the potato ultimately led to the devastating Irish Potato Famine of the mid-19th century, which had a profound impact on Irish society and cuisine.

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Cookery Among the Ancients

Concerning the art itself, it may be remarked that the French have been to cookery what the Dutch and Flemish schools have been to painting—cookery with the one and painting with the other having attained their highest excellence. Rubens, Rembrandt, Teniers, Jordaens, Ruysdael, Snyders, Berghem, and Cuyp may be paralleled in another branch of art by Carême, Vatel, Beauvilliers, Robert, Laguipière, Véry, Francatelli, and Ude.

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