Potage Parmentier

In the foodie world, few dishes capture the beauty of simplicity quite like Potage Parmentier. This classic French potato-leek soup is named after Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, an 18th-century agronomist who tirelessly championed the potato as a vital food source in France. While Potage Parmentier is often considered a humble soup, its creamy texture and subtly earthy flavors elevate it to timeless elegance. A bowl of Potage Parmentier is warm, comforting, and a reminder of the potato's journey from underappreciated crop to beloved staple.

This November, we’re revisiting a version of Potage Parmentier featured in American Cookery magazine (formerly the Boston Cooking School Magazine), a publication that introduced many Americans to European and regional American recipes. Originally launched in 1896 under the direction of culinary pioneer Fannie Merritt Farmer, Boston Cooking School Magazine was among the first publications to bring tested recipes, practical cooking tips, and instructional guides to American households. As it evolved into American Cookery, the magazine continued to shape American tastes, bridging European techniques with regional American flavors and making dishes like Potage Parmentier accessible to home cooks across the country.

The recipe for Potage Parmentier, printed in the November 1921 issue, is a testament to American Cookery’s role in popularizing international cuisine in American kitchens. In an era where home cooking was based on simplicity and available ingredients, the magazine's recipes offered a taste of sophistication, introducing subtle but refined flavors that could be enjoyed by a wide audience. Potage Parmentier, with its hearty combination of leeks, potatoes, and cream, was an ideal dish for colder months—a nourishing soup that embodies the magazine’s commitment to practical yet elevated home cooking.

The Original 1921 Recipe for Potage Parmentier

Here is the original recipe as it appeared in the November 1921 issue of American Cookery. It reflects the simplicity and minimalism of early 20th-century cooking, emphasizing wholesome ingredients without excessive seasoning.

1. Cook the well-washed, white stalks of two or three leeks, sliced lengthwise, in two tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan, and allow to remain over the fire for five or six minutes, or until slightly colored.

2. Add four large potatoes, pared and sliced, one quart of cold water, and two teaspoonfuls of salt, cover, and cook for twenty minutes after the water boils.

3. Strain out the potatoes and leeks and press through a colander.

4. Thicken the water by adding one-fourth a cup of flour, blended with two tablespoonfuls of butter or a substitute; stir until it has boiled for one minute; add one-half a teaspoonful of white pepper, stir into it the potato purée, and let the whole come to a boil.

5. Pour into the tureen, and add one-half a cup of rich cream, a cup of well-browned croûtons, and a few chervil leaves, or the green leaves of cress or any preferred herb. The addition of the half-cup of rich cream is essential to the soup "parmentier."

A Modern Adaptation of Potage Parmentier

In today’s kitchens, we might take a slightly different approach to Potage Parmentier, using an immersion blender for ease and perhaps substituting some ingredients to make it even creamier and more flavorful. Here’s a modern adaptation that maintains the essence of the original recipe but incorporates contemporary techniques:

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 2-3 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, sliced thinly

• 4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced

• 4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

• 1 cup heavy cream

• Salt and white pepper, to taste

• Fresh chives, chopped, for garnish

• Croûtons, for garnish

Instructions:

1. Melt the butter in a large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until softened and slightly golden, about 5-6 minutes.

2. Add the potatoes and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.

3. Using an immersion blender, blend the soup until smooth and creamy. (Alternatively, transfer to a blender in batches and blend until smooth.)

4. Stir in the heavy cream and season with salt and white pepper to taste.

5. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with fresh chives and croûtons.

Potage Parmentier is more than just a comforting soup; it’s a piece of culinary history that has endured for centuries. From the potato fields of 18th-century France to the pages of American Cookery magazine in 1921, and your home today, it proves simplicity can be truly timeless.