Amelia Simmon's “Pompkin” Pie

Food & Drink

Sep 23

Written By Mandy Haga

BY

Amelia Simmons

A recipe from

AMERICAN COOKERY

1796

Introduction

In the early days of American cuisine, a pioneering figure emerged whose contributions to our culinary heritage continue to delight our taste buds today. Amelia Simmons, a largely enigmatic figure, etched her name into the annals of culinary history with the publication of her groundbreaking cookbook, "American Cookery," in 1796. This remarkable tome, often considered the first-ever American cookbook, not only showcased the rich tapestry of ingredients native to the United States but also introduced a revolutionary twist on the traditional pumpkin pie.

Amelia Simmons, whose life remains shrouded in mystery, achieved culinary fame by creating a cookbook that truly celebrated American ingredients. In an era when most culinary works leaned heavily on European traditions and techniques, "American Cookery" was a breath of fresh air, emphasizing the unique bounty of the New World. This cookbook served as a testament to the culinary diversity of the United States, incorporating ingredients like corn, cranberries, and, of course, the humble pumpkin, showcasing their versatility in a myriad of delectable recipes.

One of the standout recipes from "American Cookery" is the famed Pompkin Pie. While pumpkin pies were not entirely foreign to the American table by this time, Amelia Simmons put her own stamp on the dish. Her version, characterized by an abundance of eggs and cream, veers away from the more traditional pie and leans into the realm of custard or pudding. This delightful twist transforms the dessert into a lusciously smooth and creamy indulgence, setting it apart from its predecessors.

Now, in the spirit of preserving this cherished piece of American culinary history, we've adapted Amelia Simmons's Pompkin Pie recipe to fit the modern palate and kitchen. The essence of the dish remains intact, but we've modified it to fit snugly within a contemporary 9-inch pie pan, making it both accessible and convenient for today's home bakers. This adaptation ensures that the flavors of the past can still grace our tables, inviting us to savor the taste of an era when America's culinary identity was still being defined.

Join us on a journey back in time as we recreate this timeless classic – Amelia Simmons's Pompkin Pie – a testament to the culinary ingenuity of our forebears and a delightful treat that has stood the test of time, bridging the gap between history and modernity with each velvety bite.

The Original Recipes

Within the pages of "American Cookery," a treasure trove of recipes awaits, including three that showcase humble gourds, staples of the New World.

First, there's the "Crookneck, or Winter Squash Pudding." To craft this dish, one must core, boil, and tenderly skin a robust squash before combining it with stewed apples, fine bread or biscuit crumbs, cream, and a tantalizing mix of rosewater and wine. This blend is then enriched with eggs, spices, and a touch of flour, resulting in a delightful pudding that's baked to perfection. It is noted that this recipe is equally enchanting with pumpkins, potatoes, or yams.

Next up, we delve into the world of "Pompkin". Simmons offers two variations of this classic:

No. 1 boasts a luxurious combination of stewed and strained pompkin, cream, beaten eggs, and a fragrant medley of sugar, mace, nutmeg, and ginger. This delightful concoction is carefully nestled in a pastry crust, intricately crosshatched, and baked to golden perfection.

No. 2, on the other hand, possesses a more rustic charm, featuring a quart of milk, a pint of pompkin, eggs, molasses, and a blend of allspice and ginger, all embraced within a tender crust.

“A Crookneck, or Winter Squash Pudding.
Core, boil and skin a good squash, and bruize it well; take 6 large apples, pared, cored, and stewed tender, mix together; add 6 or 7 spoonsful of dry bread or biscuit, rendered fine as meal, half pint milk or cream, 2 spoons of rose-water, 2 do. wine, 5 or 6 eggs beaten and strained, nutmeg, salt and sugar to your taste, one spoon flour, beat all smartly together, bake.
The above is a good receipt for Pompkins, Potatoes or Yams, adding more moistening or milk and rose water, and to the two latter a few black or Lisbon currants, or dry whortleberries scattered in, will make it better.
Pompkin.
No. 1. One quart stewed and strained, 3 pints cream, 9 beaten eggs, sugar, mace, nutmeg and ginger, laid into paste No. 7 or 3, and with a dough spur, cross and chequer it, and baked in dishes three quarters of an hour.
No. 2. One quart of milk, 1 pint pompkin, 4 eggs, molasses, allspice and ginger in a crust, bake 1 hour.”

The book also provides an array of intriguing pie crust options. From "No. 1," which combines butter, flour, and whipped egg whites to the more substantial "No. 7," where butter and lard enrich yield a delectable crust for sweet meats and heartier pies.

“Puff Pastes for Tarts.
No. 1. Rub one pound of butter into one pound of flour, whip 2 whites and add with cold water and one yolk; make into paste, roll in in six or seven times one pound of butter, flowring it each roll. This is good for any small thing.
No. 2. Rub six pound of butter into fourteen pound of flour, eight eggs, add cold water, make a stiff paste.
No. 3. To any quantity of flour, rub in three fourths of it's weight of butter, (twelve eggs to a peck) rub in one third or half, and roll in the rest.
No. 4. Into two quarts flour (salted) and wet stiff with cold water roll in, in nine or ten times one and half pound of butter.
No. 5. One pound flour, three fourths of a pound of butter, beat well.
No. 6. To one pound of flour rub in one fourth of a pound of butter wet with three eggs and rolled in a half pound of butter.
A Paste for Sweet Meats.
No. 7. Rub one third of one pound of butter, and one pound of lard into two pound of flour, wet with four whites well beaten; water q: s: to make a paste, roll in the residue of shortning in ten or twelve rollings—bake quick.”