The Saison

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Selections From The Queen-like Closet

BY

Hannah Wooley

Recipes from

THE QUEEN-LIKE CLOSET OR RICH CABINET

1672


Introduction

The Queen-Like Closet, or Rich Cabinet, is a 17th-century English cookbook that was first published in 1670. It was written by Hannah Woolley, who was one of the most successful female writers of her time, known for her expertise in household management and cookery.

The book is divided into two parts. The first part is a comprehensive cookbook that includes over 500 recipes for dishes ranging from meat and fish to desserts and beverages. The second part deals with household management, including topics such as budgeting, cleaning, and entertaining guests.

One interesting aspect of The Queen-Like Closet is that it was one of the first English cookbooks to include recipes from other cultures, such as Italian and French cuisine. Woolley also includes recipes for "exotic" ingredients such as pineapple and chocolate, which were just starting to become available in England at the time.

Another notable feature of The Queen-Like Closet is Woolley's use of language. She writes in a clear and accessible style that makes her recipes easy to follow, even for those who may not have much experience in the kitchen. This accessibility helped to make the book popular with a wide range of readers, from aristocratic ladies to servants and apprentices.

Selections From The Queen-like Closet

To make the Cordial Orange-Water.

Take one dozen and a half of the highest coloured and thick rin'd Oranges, slice them thin, and put them into two Pints of Malago Sack, and one Pint of the best Brandy, of Cinamon, Nutmegs, Ginger, Cloves, and Mace, of each one quarter of an Ounce bruised, of Spear-mint and Balm one handful of each, put them into an ordinary Still all night, pasted up with Rye Paste; the next day draw them with a slow fire, and keep a wet Cloth upon the Neck of the Still; put in some Loaf Sugar into the Glass where it dropeth.

To make Spirit of Oranges or of Limons.

Take of the thickest rin'd Oranges or Limons, and chip off the Rinds very thin, put these Chips into a Glass-bottle, and put in as many as the Glass will hold, then put in as much Malago Sack as the Glass will hold besides; stop the bottle close that no Air get in, and when you use it, take about half a spoonful in a Glass of Sack; it is very good for the Wind in the Stomach.

To make Limon Water.

Take twelve of the fairest Limons, slice them, and put them into two Pints of white Wine, and put to them of Cinamon and Galingale, of each, one quarter of an Ounce, of Red Rose Leaves, Burrage and Bugloss Flowers, of each one handful, of yellow Sanders one Dram, steep all these together 12 hours, then distil them gently in a Glass Still, put into the Glass where it droppeth, three Ounces of Sugar, and one Grain of Amber-Greece.

To make a most precious Water.

Take two Quarts of Brandy, of Balm, of Wood-Betony, of Pellitory of the Wall, of sweet Marjoram, of Cowslip-Flowers, Rosemary-Flowers, Sage-Flowers, Marigold-Flowers, of each of these one handful bruised together; then take one Ounce of Gromwell seeds, one Ounce of sweet Fennel seeds, one Ounce of Coriander seeds bruised, also half an Ounce of Aniseeds and half an Ounce of Caraway-seeds, half an Ounce of Juniper Berries, half an Ounce of Bay Berries, One Ounce of green Licoras, three Nutmegs, one quarter of an Ounce of large Mace, one quarter of an Ounce of Cinamon, one quarter of an Ounce of Cloves, half an Ounce of Ginger, bruise all these well together, then add to them half a pound of Raisons in the Sun stoned, let all these steep together in the Brandy nine days close stopped, then strain it out, and two Grains of Musk, two of Amber-Greece, one pound of refined Sugar; stop the Glass that no Air get in, and keep it in a warm place.

Walnut water, or the Water of Life.

Take green Walnuts in the beginning of June, beat them in a Mortar, and distil them in an ordinary Still, keep that Water by it self, then about Midsummer gather some more, and distil them as you did before, keep that also by it self, then take a quart of each and mix them together, and distil them in a Glass Still, and keep it for your use; the Virtues are as followeth; It will help all manner of Dropsies and Palsies, drank with Wine fasting; it is good for the eyes, if you put one drop therein; it helpeth Conception in Women if they drink thereof one spoonful at a time in a Glass of Wine once a day, and it will make your skin fair if you wash therewith; it is good for all infirmities of the Body, and driveth out all Corruption, and inward Bruises; if it be drunk with Wine moderately, it killeth Worms in the Body; whosoever drinketh much of it, shall live so long as Nature shall continue in him.

Finally, if you have any Wine that is turned, put in a little Viol or Glass full of it, and keep it close stopped, and within four days it will come to it self again.

To make Rosa Solis.

Take a Pottle of Aqua Composita, and put it into a Glass, then a good handful of Rosa Solis clean picked, but not washed, put it to the Aqua Composita, then take a pound of Dates stoned and beaten small, half a peniworth of Long Pepper, as much of Grains, and of round Pepper, bruise them small, take also a pound of Loaf-Sugar well beaten, a quarter of a pound of Powder of Pearl, and six leaves of Book Gold; put all to the rest, and stir them well together in the Glass, then cover it very close, and let it stand in the Sun fourteen days, ever taking it in at night; then strain it, and put it into a close Bottle; you must not put in the Pearl, Gold or Sugar till it hath been sunned and strained, neither must you touch the Leaves of the Rosa Solis with your hands when you pick it; keep it very close.

The Plague Water.

Take Rosemary, Red Balm, Burrage, Angelica, Carduus, Celandine, Dragon, Featherfew, Wormwood, Penyroyal, Elecampane roots, Mugwort, Bural, Tormentil, Egrimony, Sage, Sorrel, of each of these one handful, weighed weight for weight; put all these in an earthen Pot, with four quarts of white Wine, cover them close, and let them stand eight or nine days in a cool Cellar, then distil it in a Glass Still.

The Melancholy Water.

Take of the Flowers of Gilliflowers, four handfuls, Rosemary flowers three handfuls, Damask Rose leaves, Burrage and Bugloss flowers of each one handful, of Balm leaves six handfuls, of Marigold flowers one handful, of Pinks six handfuls, of Cinamon grosly beaten, half an ounce, two Nutmegs beaten, Anniseeds beaten one ounce, three peniworth of Saffron; put them all into a Pottle of Sack, and let them stand two days, stirring them sometimes well together; then distil them in an ordinary Still, and let it drop into a Glass wherein there is two grains of Musk, and eight ounces of white Sugar Candy, and some Leaf-Gold; take of this Water three times a week fasting, two spoonfuls at a time, and ofter if you find need; distil with soft fire; this is good for Women in Child-bed if they are faint.

To make the best Bisket-Cakes.

Take four new laid Eggs, leave out two of the Whites, beat them very well, then put in two spoonfuls of Rose-water, and, beat them very well together, then put in a pound of double refin'd Sugar beaten and searced, and beat them together one hour, then put to them one pound of fine Flower, and still beat them together a good while; then put them upon Plates rubbed over with Butter, and set them into the Oven as fast as you can, and have care you do not bake them too much.

Perfumed Roses.

Take Damask Rose Buds, and cut off the Whites, then take Rose-water or Orange-Flower water wherein hath been steeped Benjamin, Storax, Lignum Rhodium, Civet or Musk, dip some Cloves therein and stick into every Bud one, you must stick them in where you cut away the Whites; dry them between white Papers, they will then fall asunder; this Perfume will last seven years.

Or do thus.

Take your Rose Leaves cut from the Whites, and sprinkle them with the aforesaid water, and put a little powder of Cloves among them.

To make a Devonshire-White-pot.

Take two quarts of new Milk, a peny white Loaf sliced very thin, then make the Milk scalding hot, then put to it the Bread, and break it, and strain it through a Cullender, then put in four Eggs, a little Spice, Sugar, Raisins, and Currans, and a little Salt, and so bake it, but not too much, for then it will whey.

To make the Portugal Eggs.

Take a very large Dish with a broad brim, lay in it some Naples Bisket in the Form of a Star, then put so much Sack into the Dish as you do think the Biskets will drink up; then stick them full with thin little pieces of preserved Orange, and green Citron Pill, and strew store of French Comfits over them, of divers colours, then butter some Eggs, and lay them here and there upon the Biskets, then fill up the hollow places in the Dish, with several coloured Jellies, and round about the Brim thereof lay Lawrel Leaves guilded with Leaf-Gold; lay them flaunting, and between the Leaves several coloured Jellies.

To Candy Flowers the best way.

Takes Roses, Violets, Cowslips, or Gilly-flowers, and pick them from the white bottoms, then have boiled to a Candy height Sugar, and put in so many Flowers as the Sugar will receive, and continually stir them with the back of a Spoon, and when you see the Sugar harden on the sides of the Skillet, and on the Spoon, take them off the Fire, and keep them with stirring in the warm Skillet, till you see them part, and the Sugar as it were sifted upon them, then put them upon a paper while they are warm and rub them gently with your hands; till all the Lumps be broken, then put them into a Cullender, and sift them as clean as may be, then pour them upon a clean Cloth, and shake them up and down till there be hardly any Sugar hanging about them; then if you would have them look as though they were new gathered, have some help, and open them with your fingers before they be quite cold, and if any Sugar hang about them, you may wipe it off with a fine Cloth; to candy Rosemary Flowers, or Archangel, you must pull out the string that stands up in the middle of the Blossom, and take them which are not at all faded, and they will look as though they were new gathered, without opening.

To pickle Cucumbers.

Take the least you can get, and lay a layer of Cucumbers, and then a layer of beaten Spices, Dill, and Bay Leaves, and so do till you have filled your Pot, and let the Spices, Dill, and Bay Leaves cover them, then fill up your Pot with the best Wine Vinegar, and a little Salt, and so keep them.

Sliced Turneps also very thin, in some Vinegar, Pepper and a little
Salt, do make a very good Sallad, but they will keep but six Weeks.

To make Sugar Cakes.

Take a pound of fine Sugar beaten and searced, with four Ounces of the finest Flower, put to it one pound of Butter well washed with Rose-water, and work them well together, then take the Yolks of four Eggs, and beat them with four Spoonfuls of Rosewater, in which hath been steeped two or three days before Nutmeg and Cinamon, then put thereto so much Cream as will make it knead to a stiff Paste, rowl it into thin Cakes, and prick them, and lay them on Plates, and bake them; you shall not need to butter your Plates, for they will slip off of themselves, when they are cold.

To make Limon Cakes.

Take half a pound of refin'd sugar, put to it two spoonfuls of Rosewater, as much Orange Flower water, and as much of fair water, boil it to a Candy height, then put in the Rind of a Limon grated, and a little Juice, stir it well on the fire, and drop it on Plates or sleeked Paper.

To make Marmalade of Cherries with Currans.

Take four pounds of Cherries when they are stoned, and boil them alone in their Liquor for half an hour very fast, then pour away the Liquor from them, and put to them half a Pint and little more of the juice of Currans, then boil a pound of double refin'd Sugar to a Candy height, and put your Cherries and Juice of Currans in that, and boil them again very fast till you find it to jelly very well.

To preserve Rasberries.

Take the weight of your Rasberries in fine Sugar, and take some Rasberries and bruise them a little; then take the clearest of the bruised Rasberries, I mean the Juice and the weight of it in Sugar, and your other Sugar named before, and boil it, and scum it, then put in your whole Rasberries, and boil them up once, then let them stand over the fire without boiling till you see it will Jelly, and that it look clear, then take up your Rasberries one by one, and put them into Glasses, then boil your Syrrop, and put it over them.

To make Raisin Wine or Stepony.

Take four Gallons of Spring-water, four pounds of Raisins of the Sun stoned, the juice of four good Limons, and the Rind of two cut thin, boil the Raisins, and Pill in the Water for half an hour or more, then put in the juice of Limon, and a little Spice, Sugar and Rosewater, and let it stand but a little more over the fire; then put it into an earthen pot, and beat it together till it be cold, then bottle it up, it will keep but a few days.

Memorandum, Two pounds of Sugar to one pound of Cowslips is enough for Conserve.

To make Ale to drink within a Week.

Tun it into a Vessel which will hold eight Gallons, and when it hath done working, ready to bottle, put in some Ginger sliced, and an Orange stuck with Cloves, and cut here and there with a Knife, and a pound and half of Sugar, and with a stick stir it well together, and it will work afresh; when it hath done working, stop it close, and let it stand till it be clear, then bottle it up and put a Lump of Sugar into every Bottle, and then stop it close, and knock down the Corks, and turn the Bottles the Bottoms upwards, and it will be fit to drink in a Weeks time.

To make the Orange Pudding.

Take the rind of a small one pared very thin, and boiled in several waters, and beaten very fine in a Mortar, then put to it four Ounces of fine Sugar, and four Ounces of fresh Butter, and the Yolks of six Eggs, and a little Salt, beat it together in the Mortar till the Oven heats, and so butter a dish and bake it, but not too much; strew Sugar on it and serve it to the Table, Bake it in Puff-past.

To make French Bread.

Take half a Bushel of fine Flower, ten Eggs, one pound and a half of fresh Butter, then put in as much Yest as you do into Manchet, temper it with new milk pretty hot, and let it lie half an hour to rise, then make it into Loaves or Rolls, and wash it over with an Egg beaten with Milk; let not your Oven be too hot.

To make a Cake with Almonds.

Take one pound and half of fine Flower, of Sugar twelve Ounces beaten very fine, mingle them well together, then take half a pound of Almonds blanched, and beaten with Rosewater, mingle all these with as much Sack as will work it into a Paste, put in some Spice, some Yest, and some plumped Currans with some Butter, and a little salt, to make it into a Cake and bake it.

To make Shrewsbury Cakes.

Take four pounds of Flower, two pounds of Butter, one pound and an half of fine Sugar, four Eggs, a little beaten Cinamon, a little Rosewater, make a hole in the Flower, and put the Eggs into it when they are beaten, then mix the Butter, Sugar, Cinamon, and Rosewater together, and then mix them with the Eggs and Flower, then make them into thin round Cakes, and put them into an Oven after the Houshold Bread is drawn; this quantity will make three dozen of Cakes.

To make Goosberry Wine.

Bruise ripe Goosberries with an Apple-Beater, but do not beat them too small, then strain them through a hair strainer, and put your Juice into an earthen Pot, keep it covered four or five days till it be clear, then draw it out into another Vessel, letting it run into a hair sieve, stop it close, and let it stand one fortnight, then draw it out into quart Bottles, putting one Pound of Sugar into eight Bottles, stop them up close, and in a week or fortnights time you may drink them.

To make Damson Wine.

Take four Gallons of Water and put to every Gallon of Water four Pounds of Malaga Raisins, and half a Peck of Damsons.

Put the Raisins and Damsons into a Vessel without a head, cover the Vessel and let them steep six days, stirring them twice every day; then let them stand as long without stirring, then draw the Wine out of the Vessel, and colour it with the infused juice of Damsons sweetened with Sugar, till it be like Claret Wine, then put it into a Wine-vessel for a fortnight, and then bottle it up.

To make Conserve of Red Roses.

Take their Buds and clip off the Whites, then take three times their weight in Sugar double refin'd; beat the Roses well in a Mortar, then put in the Sugar by little and little, and when you find it well incorporated, put it into Gally-pots, and cover it with Sugar, and so it will keep seven years.

To make Almond Ginger-Bread.

Take a little Gum-Dragon and lay it in steep in Rosewater all night, then take half a Pound of Jordan Almonds blanched and beaten with some of that Rosewater, then take half a pound of fine Sugar beaten and searced, of Ginger and Cinamon finely searced, so much as by your taste you may judge to be fit; beat all these together into a Paste, and dry it in a warm Oven or Stove.

To preserve Oranges and Limons that they shall have a Rock Candy on them in the Syrrup.

Take the fairest and cut them in halves, or if you will do them whole, then cut a little hole in the bottom, so that you may take out all the meat, lay them in water nine days, shifting them twice every day, then boil them in several Waters, till a straw will run through them, then take to every Pound of Orange or Limon one Pound of fine Sugar, and one quart of Water, make your Syrrup, and let your Oranges or Limons boil a while in it, then let them stand five or six days in that Syrrup, then to every Pound, put one Pound more of Sugar into your Syrrup, and boil your Oranges till they be very clear, then take your Oranges out, and boil your Syrrup almost to Candy, and put to them.

To make Court Perfumes.

Take three Ounces of Benjamin, lay it all night in Damask Rose buds clean cut from the white, beat them very fine in a stone Mortar till it come to a Paste, then take it out and mix it with a dram of Musk finely beaten, as much Civet, mould them up with a little searced Sugar, and dry them between Rose Leaves each of them, then dry them very well and keep them to burn, one at a time is sufficient.

To keep Flowers all the Year.

Take any sort of pretty Flowers you can get, and have in readiness some
Rosewater made very slippery by laying Gum Arabick therein.

Dip your Flowers very well, and swing it out again, and stick them in a sieve to dry in the Sun, some other of them you may dust over with fine Flower, and some with searced Sugar, after you have wetted them, and so dry them.

Either of them will be very fine, but those with Sugar will not keep so well as the other; they are good to set forth Banquets, and to garnish Dishes, and will look very fresh, and have their right smell.

To Candy Carrot Roots.

Take of the best and Boil them tender then pare them, and cut them in such pieces as you like; then take fine Sugar boiled to a Candy height with a little Water, then put in your Roots, and boil them till you see they will Candy; but you must first boil them with their weight in Sugar and some Water, or else they will not be sweet enough; when they are enough, lay them into a Box, and keep them dry: thus you may do green Peascods when they are very young, if you put them into boiling water, and let them boil close covered till they are green, and then boiled in a Syrup, and then the Candy, they will look very finely, and are good to set forth Banquets, but have no pleasant taste.

To make Italian Bisket.

Take Sugar searced fine, and beat in a Mortar with Gum Dragon steeped in
Rosewater, and also the White of an Egg, till it come to a perfect
Paste, then mould it up with searced Sugar, powder of Aniseeds, and a
little Musk, and make them in what shape you please, and bake them on
Pie-Plates, but not too much.

To Candy Flowers.

Boil some Rosewater and Sugar together, then put in your Flowers being very dry and boil them a little, then strew in some fine Sugar over them, and turn them, and boil them a little more, then take them from the fire, and strew some more Sugar over them, then take them out and lay them to dry, and open them, and strew Sugar over them; they will dry in a few hours in a hot day.

To make French Bisket.

Take half a Peck of fine Flower, two Ounces of Coriander seeds, the Whites of four Eggs, half a Pint of Ale Yest, and as much water as will make it up into a stiff Paste, let your water be blood warm, then bake it in a long Roll as big as your Thigh, let it be in the Oven but one hour, when it is two days old, pare it and slice it thin over-thwart, then ice it over thin, and set it into the Oven to dry.

To make Ginger-bread.

Take three stale Manchets grated and sifted, then put to them half an Ounce of Cinamon, as much Ginger, half an Ounce of Licoras and Aniseeds together, beat all these and searce them, and put them in with half a Pound of fine Sugar, boil all these together with a quart of Claret, stirring them continually till it come to a stiff Paste, then when it is almost cold, mould it on a Table with some searced Spice and Sugar, then bake it in what shape you please.

To make Cream of Artichoke Bottoms.

Take a Quart of Cream and boil it with a little whole Mace a while; then have your Artichoke Bottoms boiled very tender, and bruise them well in a Mortar, then put them into the Cream, and boil them a while, then put in so many yolks of Eggs as you think fit, and sweeten it to your taste; when you think it is enough, pour it out, and serve it in cold


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